I mostly build tracks designed to accommodate "HO" slot cars,
but can do tracks for 1/24th, 1/32nd and 1/43rd size cars too.
Click here to learn about my new system for 1/32nd (and 1/43rd) scale cars
Click this link to see just a few of the endless track designs you can choose from
- I have built custom adapter tracks that adapt Carrera track to Artin track.
- I offer modular designed tracks! Click here to see them.
- I currently have some custom hairpin turns to fit inside Carrera's #1 turns for sale. Click here to find out more about them,
- and Scalextric 4 lane hairpin turns.
Click here to learn about them

- I offer a choice of 2 different styles of rail for my HO tracks.
1) - Originally I used rail that was .012" x .080" in size. This was the rail I used in all the tracks I built from 1997 up until about 2005.
I've since replaced this rail with slightly wider rail (.0145" x .075"), so it'll be easier on pick-up shoes and have very close to the same amount of magnetic grip as the earlier rail. I recommend choosing this rail if all you ever run are T-jets (or other non-magnetic attraction cars). It's less costly and T-jets have no need it for the additional material in the taller rail .
Magnetic grip cars still run very well on tracks with this rail, but it does make it a bit more challenging to drive.

2) - The newest rail I now have is being used to accommodate magnet car racers. They want a "spec" rail. So I duplicated Tomy rail (.015" x .109"). I'd say this rail has 15-20% more grip than my smaller rail. It's is more difficult and time consuming to install this rail over the smaller rail
. So with the added expense of the larger rail, the extra layer of "lock wire" it will require and the extra labor involved. Choosing the "tall rail" will increase the price of your track, but I think most magnet car racers will find it worth it.


Bob Marketos (of fame)
commissioned me to build 2 different kit tracks. The 6 lane version is the Tan track at the Fray in Ferndale.
Click here to see the new International T-jet track
Click here to see the new International Fray track
- Do you own or know somebody that owns an old Aurora "Tub" track?
I sell roadway sections that drop right into an "ole' Tubbie".
They can be hand routed for 4 lanes, or CNC routed for 5 or 6 lanes.
Heck, even if you don't own the "Tub", this would make a nice track
on a regular table! Click here to see that layout
I offer a method of connecting the track sections together. I call them "dogbones". They are small dogbone shaped pieces that span the roadway joints. They help prevent the roadway sections from pulling apart and help to align the slots. They're great for temporary circuits that are designed to be torn down from time to time.
I can only offer dogbones with tracks that are CNC routed, so if you are interested in this, the cost of a track will go up some due
to the additional shop fee.
Click here to see a diagram of the dogbone set up
The demand has become too great. Racers from all over are asking me to build them tracks that are more suited for the "high-end", high downforce magnet cars.
Click here to learn more about these tracks.
Click here to see some CAD designs
Email me with any questions at:

Click here to go back to my Home Page
How deep do you make your pin slot?
-In the past I was only able to route it to about .150", but recently I found a bit that will plunge deeper. So now it's at about .175" - 187" deep. To compare: Tyco, T-jet and Life-Like track are about .128" and Tomy and A/FX are at about .190".
Most every HO slot car will run on my tracks (except old Matchbox cars that utilized a different rail spacing). The only time you might run into a problem, would be if you used an extra long aftermarket (BSRT, Wizzard, etc.) pin.
These pins are designed for the deep slot in A/FX, Tomy track, but if you use their standard length "pro" guide pin on my tracks, there won't be a problem.
How high do you set your rail height to?
- On "HO" tracks, I try really hard to keep it as close to .012" as possible. Recently I made a new jig and bought a new router that allows me to keep it between .009"-.015". To compare, most of the major manufacturers (Tomy, Tyco, etc.) are lucky if they keep it between .007" - .020".
What if I want to build the table?
- That's no problem, I can sell you just the already routed and railed track sections, without the table.
What is the track surface made of and can I choose any color?
- It's cut from large sheets of expanded foam PVC plastic. The surface is a lot like standard (Tomy, Tyco, etc.) track with just a very fine texture to it. Yes, the sheets come in many colors but I recommend gray.

I prefer to use expanded foam PVC, but I can route your track from solid PVC. Solid PVC has a glossy smooth finish, which offers good traction for silicone tires, but I don't like the glare that it can cause. Also too much tire grip can cause the cars to tip over, instead of hanging the back-end out. Also most of my customers prefer the fact that the plastic I use "looks" more like real roadway.
If you do choose to have me utilize solid PVC, it will increase the price of your track.

Can you laminate a track with a Formica like material?
- I could, but I don't recommend it. It would increase the cost, make the roadway less flexible and I don't think the added tire traction is necessarily a good thing. The additional tire grip will have a tendency to roll the car over instead of allowing it to get sideways. Also, if a glossy surface is chosen, it could cause too much glare.
I like the detailed scenery. Do you do that too?
- Yes I can (at an additional expense).
Are there any limitations to the circuit design I want?
- No, not really. Let your mind free to design any conceivable layout you like. I can probably duplicate it.
Once I get my track, how long will it take me to set it up?
- If you buy the ready-to-run, track & table from me, it won't take long at all. Say, if your track was built on 2 tables, it will only take about 15 minutes before you're set up and racing.
What about "magnetic" grip?
How will the different rails feel compared to standard track and other routed brands?

- My current smaller rail (compared to my "Tomy" sized rail) still offers plenty of magnetic grip, but not so little as to take away the speed of driving a "magnet" car. Magnet cars will have tendency to fishtail more with the shorter rail. Which makes them fun to drive and cool to watch too.
One of my tracks, The Katz-Spa-Ring, is a 171' long home track with as much as 22" of elevation changes!
View pics of it here:
The Katz-Spa-Ring has my old, smaller (.012" x .080") rail. A stock Tomy Super G+ with solid silicone tires can lap that track in approximately 8 seconds. That's an average speed of 16 mph. Over hill and dale mind you!

I had a friend try an Unlimited car (with 6 magnets in it!) and he lapped the K-S-R in 5.33 seconds! That's an average of almost 23 mph! A good Fray-style T-jet time is about 16 seconds (7.28 mph avg.).
- The large rail most definitely has more grip. Turns that required you to feather the throttle with the smaller rail, now become flat-out. Lap times drop dramatically, and the cars ZIP around the track like you may be used to on Tomy track.
Click here to learn more about the larger railed tracks.

I'd like my track to be CNC routed. Can you do that?

Yes I can. I have very good CAD-CAM software to create the layout design. Then I have a local shop do the CNC work. I don't have them do the rails slots because the CNC machines can't be as accurate as they need to be to hold the tolerances I require. So, I have to route the rail slots by hand.